Everest
My connection at Amsterdam airport was a bit delayed, usually such things upset me, but this time I was happy. It gave me a bit more time to spend with my childhood friend Vishal. We were catching up at the business lounge between our connection. Its been a while since we saw each other. Work, wives, home, and kids, had kept both of busy leaving hardly much time for time for usual friend gossip or activities. Catching up with friends is even harder when friends are separated by intercontinental flight.
While sipping free champagne, thanks to KLM business lounge, we remembered last time we had fun together as friends. That was before either of us had got married. It was, here in Amsterdam, when we took a journey to Eastern Europe. And probably became first Indians to Climb Mt. Sniezka in Poland. Well to be precise between Polish and Czech border. On the way to Sniezka we did lot of other crazy thing in Prague and made some interesting friends. Lets leave that part for another time. Memories of sipping warm potato soup on the Cold mountain and enjoying the frozen lake beneath us was one of the mesmerising moments of the whole trip. We remembered enjoying potato pancakes with cream and yogurt, in a road side bistro, while comparing it with Indian potato tiki en-route the Czech country side. That was quite a trip and we had so much fun from Karlovyvary all the way to Sniezka and back. Now family life had made often hard to find time for fun. We also remembered our old Roorkee days when time was not a constraint.
As we were cherishing the past memories Vishal got distracted by a tall beautiful blonde Dutch girls, who has just come and sat on the table opposite to ours. I asked him “ what you ogling at big lion ? “ Vishal replied, “ I am checking her T-Shirt”. “ You really want me to believe that ?” I knew he cannot be serious. Must be some things else, needless to say, I know him for a long time. Vishal said, “ is that Everest or what”? That did got me curious. You know what I am thinking now. So I turned to check her out. Well first time in years, he was serious, girl was wearing a T-shirt with Everest. There was a beautiful picture of Everest and underneath it said “ I have been here”. I asked him, “ what are you thinking ?” Vishal “ if She could go why can’t we ?” Our plans have been spontaneous many time. Even the trip to Eastern Europe was a spontaneous one. I also echoed his consent. At the same moment KLM announced in its typical rude tone, “ Vishal Singh report to gate no 31 in 5 minutes otherwise we will offload you luggage”. My connection was delayed but apparently Vishal’s was running on time. We parted with this thought in mind. Everest was calling.
Next few weeks we shared messages over Whatsapp to ensure that seriousness was still there. In the meantime discussion about our plans also were shared with some very closed friends from college. First to join was Kunal, most experienced and adventurous, among us. Kunal left Roorkee straight to US for studies and was on his was to become Americans soon. Saini, most physically active, also joined in. Saini was the youngest among us and I wanted him to join. He and I share a secret and I wanted to know his side of the story.
Then four of us spent next few weeks trying to convince Chaudhary to join in. Few years back Chaudhary, Saini and Vishal had taken a trekking trip to the lake of death in the Indian side of Himalayas reaching an altitude of 20,000 ft. The trip was excellent fun with great stories we heard of Chaudhary’s chased by wild dogs on the way to the lake. It was important that Chaudhary joins us. He has been an important part of our group during the college days. I even tried to convince him meeting him on my return trip to Delhi from Doha. All our efforts were in vain. Chaudhary managed to Injure him self few weeks before the trip and any hope to take him with us were out. Our plan did suffer from him not joining as we had shortened it to accommodate his schedule. We didn’t thought much about it it then but it was going to haunt us later.
Training
Once the pack was decided, it was time to start training to see if we had, in us, what it takes to be on Everest. Next few weeks were spent to train a bit and exchange each others training schedule and tips. We had decided that once we all start to stick to a training schedule then only we would finalise our plans. We all read about training for Everest trek and watched YouTube videos to familiarise ourselves with the terrain and the beast it self. Soon into our training rhythm we all started to realise that it is going to be a challenge. We were all finding it hard to stick to the training schedule and effects of our ageing bodies on our training were starting to show left right and centre. Only, Saini, was really holding it well. He was helped by his beautiful Americans women co-worker, who were almost working like sexy cheerleaders for him. He posted several pictures of training with young ladies, with fantastic bodies, on the Whatsapp group we had created to keep each other up to date. In contrast to his training mine was like walking in the Park. I was living in Doha and in the summer heat of Doha it was hard to do reasonably good hikes. So I sticked to treadmill and stair stepper. Occasionally I tried to take stairs to my office, which was on the 15th floor. Vishal started his training by trying to have long fast walks around the beautiful garden and suburbs of London. Some days passing Thames on side and Big Bang on other one day. Other days he walked through the green park gardens around Buckingham palace. He tried to minimise his time. In between, over weekend, he tried few small hikes in the country side. Kunal tried his best to get out of LA for his training and often over the weekend did few hikes with another friend, Virdi, who was also getting a bit inclined to join us.
It took us all about two months to finally find a training routine and a rhythm. We could start to feel our rusted bodies responding to the training. Our stamina was slowly but steadily improved. We followed up our training with routine video conference calls, thanks to the techie Kunal, and shared our experiences to help each other. We also discussed different equipment and pieces of clothing we would need on the trip and divided who will be getting what. Kunal was made in-charge of buying sleeping bags and camping gear. Saini was to bring nutrition bars and minerals. Vishal was going to bring filming equipments and some additional camping gear. I was to bring rechargeable battery packs and some additional compact food for carry on. Our training continued and discussion started to focus more on selection of trekking and traveling days and booking our travel. Lots of back and forth arithmetic calculations were done, well finally we were putting our college degrees and excel skills to use, in figuring out when we should start our travel and how much time we would need based on our trainings and body conditions. Sani maintained the spreadsheet and shared if with us on occasion. He was going to keep track of all the expenses, which were to be shared at the end. It also helped us figure out, why US tax department is employing him. We all agreed it must be his excel skills.
The Guide
As we felt more comfortable, that we could possibly pull it off, we also started discuss the planning and choosing a suitable tour operator and a guide who would eventually take us up to the Everest base camp. Without proper guides, who could sense the weather and knows local language, and sherpas to carry your luggage and equipments up the mountain it impossible to make the trek to the base camp. We spent some time finding right guide with a reasonable priced tour operator. Kunal and Saini found one over the Internet based in US. We had few phone calls with him and soon we all paid a deposit and booked our tour guide with a US based Nepalese tour operator.
We had few calls with our guide, Shyam, over Skype. Shyam was a good salesman, he sold us an amazing Everest base camp trek over Skype. He appeared to know what he was talking. He spoke in fluent americanised English, which made us trust him even more. It amazing how someone’s communication skills mislead you.
Whether the trek is going to be successful or not depends a lot on the guide and tour operator. Did we knew it before hand ? Off-course not as we were going to learn it hard way in coming months. Our guide was anything but for sure not a guide. We were going to discover it too.
The Flight
Arrival dates were decided in next few calls. We all agreed to aim for a quite period and stable weather. After looking a numerous possibilities it was agreed to have our trek during winter months of Nov 2018. It will be cold but weather will be stable and we will find the trail relatively empty. We all would get a chance to enjoy and we hoped to have all the mountain for ourselves. Tickets were booked, food, medicine, equipment finalised, and finally bags were packed. We said good bye to our wives and kids. And just before we were about to leave from our respective places to meet in Delhi we had a surprise addition of one more college friend Virdi. He was filling up for Chaudhary, who was not injured and resting at home. We all arrived at Delhi international airport. It was our starting point for the trek. Vishal arrived from London, I took my flight from Doha, Kunal from LA, Saini flew a week before and was in Delhi and so was Virdi. We all met at Delhi international airport. It was a great joyful moment. We were all together finally after months of hard work, planning and training. We all looked fit and took a group picture, thanks to a beautiful girl, at the statue of Natraj in the centre of Arrival hall at the Delhi international airport. Excitement was in air we were all waiting for the moment we will be in Kathmandu. Soon our flight boarding gates were announced and we all headed to board the royal Nepalese airline.
Flight was about 2 hours long. It gave us plenty of time to talk and share our training experience. We laughed at funny things we been doing in past few months to get in shape for the trek. We all were very happy. When we were up in the air, pilot announced that we could see Mt. Everest to our left. We all rushed to the window seat, where Vishal was seated and took some selfies with Mt. Everest shining out from the aeroplane window. Kunal took his go pro and started filming. It was fantastic moment, which got captured on the film. In the meantime beautiful Nepalese air hostesses brought some snacks for us to enjoy with our view. While we all tried to enjoy the view with our snacks, Vishal was trying to enjoy the air hostesses instead, that is typical of him. Beautiful woman and Vishal are always attracted to each other.
The Arrival
As the wheels of the plane touched tarmac vaporising fragments of water on it we all rejoiced and cheered for finally landing in Kathmandu after months of wait. The Kathmandu Airport is set in a very scenic environment surrounded with mountains all around. We took few groups pictures as soon as we disembarked the aircraft. Kunal was filming with his go pro camera, when one of the security staff politely asked us to move away from the aircraft and proceed to the arrival hall. We walked passed narrow corridors of the arrival hall made in red brick building. As soon as we reached closer to the immigration counter we hit a huge wall of tourist from all over the world waiting for payments of their visas. The scene at the immigration was rather chaotic it too, us a while to figure out that a separate immigration counter existed for travellers from India. Thank Goodness for that it was nice to escape the long immigration queue. After passing through immigration we made our way to the arrival hall to collect our checked-in bags. The arrival hall was more chaotic than the immigration counter and smell of human urine was all over the place. Our first impression had turned from scenic beauty of mountains seen from the sky to the chaotic reality on the grounds. “Welcome to Kathmandu signs” was written on the exit gate as we left the airport to find out Guide. That’s when we met Vishnu - our real guide. It important to dedicate a paragraph on Vishnu. He was going to play an important role later on.
Vishnu The Real Guide
It has turned out that Shyam has duped us. He was not present at the arrival gate but we were greeted by his cousin Vishnu - well a distant cousin. It also became clear to us that Shyam our guide or what we thought was our guide was just a middleman based in US, who has never been to Everest himself. He was a smooth talker who get the client and hands them over to his extended family in Nepal at the arrival hall. So hence we have our real guide Vishnu. Now Vishnu is tall as per Nepalis standard, dark in complexion had deep settled eyes and triangular face. He wore North face jacket and lowered and had a sherpa hat over his head. Vishnu greeted us politely and soon it became clear to us that his English was limited and he didn’t spoke a word of Hindi. Kunal tried to make some desperate calls to Shyam on the number he had but it went un answered. Shyam’s job was done we were passed on to new guide.